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Rubber coated RS valence
3 Attachment(s)
Sometimes I am amazed at the stuff on Ebay. I did the BIN on this piece 3 days ago and received it today.
After removing the factory rubber coating I realized what a truly nice valence this is for the price. It is a 67 nos lower valence with the early GM sticker still attached. Front side still mostly has factory E prime but back side has mostly surface rust. Maybe a good candidate for Ospho or the PPG metal cleaner and neutralizer SX579 that Chuck Burg mentioned in his Day 2 restoration? |
This will be going on my 67 SS/(RS conversion) convertible clone that has all new GM nos panels bought years back since fenders are RS.
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Dang, nice piece. You don't happen to have an extra tail panel ??
You could use Evapo-Rust on that too and not need a neutralizer. |
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Find anything big enough and line it with a rubber membrane. I lined a 144 gallon stock tank with rubber roofing to soak fenders in.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...=278&crop=fill |
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Regarding reproduction parking lights, does anybody have any experience/ on which manufacturer is the best for a 67 RS?
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Still wandering about Evapo-Rust. After soaking part to remove rust what is the next preparation to get some primer/paint on parts?
I found that there are 2 different venders for parking lights. AMD and OER and based on pictures, I ordered AMD. |
The AMD are made by Classic Headquarters. AMD provides many other parts from outside to be a complete source.
I "think" that is the brand I got from Heartbeat City too, but don't recall for certain. Those are sitting in a cabinet waiting to be installed. |
I came across this video today and I'm thinking seriously about using muriatic acid on this panel instead.
I still can't imbed a video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY7_7uey1ac |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY7_7uey1ac copy everything after the = Then paste that on your post, highlight it and press the You Tube icon - must be in advanced edit to get to it. Presto: |
Installing an embedder is the way to go, I still can’t get it to work.
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Muriatic WILL etch the metal. It needs to be diluted a lot to be safe for the metal and then it works much slower than his results.
If you are going to use it, have a large enough tub to submerge the entire piece to avoid etch lines like I got soaking my fenders one side at a time. The etch will be uniform and if rough enough, supply the "tooth" primers want to grab the metal (substrate) That would eliminate needing to hand sand with 80 grit. |
Muriatic Acid is a wonderful thing. :)
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Do this: On the main screen choose "UserCP" (User Control Panel) https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...3&d=1621705573 Then Choose "Edit Options" https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...4&d=1621705573 To make your message screen look like this... https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...5&d=1621705573 Go to the very bottom of the Edit Options screen and choose "Enhanced Interface - Full WYSIWYG Editing" then save the changes. You should be good to go! https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...6&d=1621705573 __________________ |
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I would never use Muriatic acid on stamped steel panels, especially if there are any welded joints (such as at the bottom of this front valance. You will likely end up with paint bubbles a couple years after paint is applied.
JMHO that it is not worth the risk. |
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