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-   -   Rubber coated RS valence (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=166659)

hogdaddy 03-31-2021 09:27 PM

Rubber coated RS valence
 
3 Attachment(s)
Sometimes I am amazed at the stuff on Ebay. I did the BIN on this piece 3 days ago and received it today.

After removing the factory rubber coating I realized what a truly nice valence this is for the price. It is a 67 nos lower valence with the early GM sticker still attached.

Front side still mostly has factory E prime but back side has mostly surface rust.

Maybe a good candidate for Ospho or the PPG metal cleaner and neutralizer SX579 that Chuck Burg mentioned in his Day 2 restoration?

hogdaddy 03-31-2021 09:30 PM

This will be going on my 67 SS/(RS conversion) convertible clone that has all new GM nos panels bought years back since fenders are RS.

Too Many Projects 03-31-2021 10:06 PM

Dang, nice piece. You don't happen to have an extra tail panel ??
You could use Evapo-Rust on that too and not need a neutralizer.

hogdaddy 03-31-2021 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects (Post 1543663)
Dang, nice piece. You don't happen to have an extra tail panel ??
You could use Evapo-Rust on that too and not need a neutralizer.

I don't have an extra tail panel, sorry. Yea maybe build a tray and soak it in Evapo rust?

Too Many Projects 03-31-2021 10:18 PM

Find anything big enough and line it with a rubber membrane. I lined a 144 gallon stock tank with rubber roofing to soak fenders in.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...=278&crop=fill

Lynn 04-01-2021 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects (Post 1543670)
Find anything big enough and line it with a rubber membrane. I lined a 144 gallon stock tank with rubber roofing to soak fenders in.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...=278&crop=fill

Very cool.

hogdaddy 04-03-2021 12:50 AM

Regarding reproduction parking lights, does anybody have any experience/ on which manufacturer is the best for a 67 RS?

hogdaddy 05-15-2021 04:17 AM

Still wandering about Evapo-Rust. After soaking part to remove rust what is the next preparation to get some primer/paint on parts?

I found that there are 2 different venders for parking lights. AMD and OER and based on pictures, I ordered AMD.

Too Many Projects 05-15-2021 12:12 PM

The AMD are made by Classic Headquarters. AMD provides many other parts from outside to be a complete source.
I "think" that is the brand I got from Heartbeat City too, but don't recall for certain. Those are sitting in a cabinet waiting to be installed.

hogdaddy 06-08-2021 05:25 AM

I came across this video today and I'm thinking seriously about using muriatic acid on this panel instead.
I still can't imbed a video here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY7_7uey1ac

Lee Stewart 06-08-2021 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogdaddy (Post 1550984)
I came across this video today and I'm thinking seriously about using muriatic acid on this panel instead.
I still can't imbed a video here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY7_7uey1ac

To imbed a You Tube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY7_7uey1ac

copy everything after the =

Then paste that on your post, highlight it and press the You Tube icon - must be in advanced edit to get to it.

Presto:


Burd 06-08-2021 12:37 PM

Installing an embedder is the way to go, I still can’t get it to work.

Too Many Projects 06-08-2021 01:49 PM

Muriatic WILL etch the metal. It needs to be diluted a lot to be safe for the metal and then it works much slower than his results.
If you are going to use it, have a large enough tub to submerge the entire piece to avoid etch lines like I got soaking my fenders one side at a time. The etch will be uniform and if rough enough, supply the "tooth" primers want to grab the metal (substrate) That would eliminate needing to hand sand with 80 grit.

Mr70 06-08-2021 02:29 PM

Muriatic Acid is a wonderful thing. :)

hogdaddy 06-08-2021 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee Stewart (Post 1550997)
To imbed a You Tube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY7_7uey1ac

copy everything after the =

Then paste that on your post, highlight it and press the You Tube icon - must be in advanced edit to get to it.

I don't see the Youtube icon on my desktop computer. Does this only work on phones?

hogdaddy 06-08-2021 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects (Post 1551023)
Muriatic WILL etch the metal. It needs to be diluted a lot to be safe for the metal and then it works much slower than his results.
If you are going to use it, have a large enough tub to submerge the entire piece to avoid etch lines like I got soaking my fenders one side at a time. The etch will be uniform and if rough enough, supply the "tooth" primers want to grab the metal (substrate) That would eliminate needing to hand sand with 80 grit.

He mentions a stronger muriatic acid and Lowe's sells it I believe but he uses it full strength in video.

Xplantdad 06-08-2021 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogdaddy (Post 1551044)
I don't see the Youtube icon on my desktop computer. Does this only work on phones?






Do this:


On the main screen choose "UserCP" (User Control Panel)


https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...3&d=1621705573



Then Choose "Edit Options"




https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...4&d=1621705573






To make your message screen look like this...




https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...5&d=1621705573






Go to the very bottom of the Edit Options screen and choose "Enhanced Interface - Full WYSIWYG Editing" then save the changes. You should be good to go!






https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...6&d=1621705573
__________________

Too Many Projects 06-08-2021 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogdaddy (Post 1551046)
He mentions a stronger muriatic acid and Lowe's sells it I believe but he uses it full strength in video.

I didn't watch the whole thing, cause I can't stand all the hype and BS. If it is already diluted, it may be fine, but don't leave it unattended for long...keep checking it often and remove as soon as it is clean.

Lynn 06-08-2021 05:25 PM

I would never use Muriatic acid on stamped steel panels, especially if there are any welded joints (such as at the bottom of this front valance. You will likely end up with paint bubbles a couple years after paint is applied.

JMHO that it is not worth the risk.

hogdaddy 06-08-2021 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn (Post 1551062)
I would never use Muriatic acid on stamped steel panels, especially if there are any welded joints (such as at the bottom of this front valance. You will likely end up with paint bubbles a couple years after paint is applied.

JMHO that it is not worth the risk.

I have used it (full strength) previously on cocktail shakers years ago and primed and painted them afterwards with no issues to this day.

hogdaddy 06-08-2021 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects (Post 1551060)
I didn't watch the whole thing, cause I can't stand all the hype and BS. If it is already diluted, it may be fine, but don't leave it unattended for long...keep checking it often and remove as soon as it is clean.

He uses the acid full strength in a spray bottle wiping with paint brush then 20% vinegar in a spray bottle then uses water from a hose pipe. Worth watching.


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