What do you think it would fetch at auction?$500K?More?Or less?

Millions!!

Look at vintage Ferrari prices, start there. Many millions.

Better not restore it!!

Paul Newmans watch brought 1.7m.

Try 17.8 MILLION!!!!

If I were to bet I'd guess 2 mil+
and I just found this statement on Vanity Fair "The car is now valued at $3 million to $5 million."

depends how bad someone wants it?? i would guess 5 mil plus. isnt there another thread where they claim the bullittt mustang?

Man...all the hype over one of the coolest cars ever! Having that car come our answered a lot of questions enthusiasts have about making a replica of that car. Mmmm.....:naughty: thinking.......:naughty: It may be poll time!! To "B" (Bullitt) or NOT to "B"?:hmmm:

So.... moving forward, it's wiring harness spaghetti nightmare time again! Since it's all stock it's really not that bad. I laid out the original harness to match it up with the new harness and two things were clearly different: the fog light harness and the courtesy/convenience warning light harnesses. In the second photo you can see transferring one of the additional harnesses to the new dash harness.

So, step one is mounting the fuse block with all the relays and such. Routing the taillight and forward light harnesses are up next. More too come.....

Cheers:beers:
Dave

What supplier made the new harness?

Good place? Would you recommend them?

Ryan

They're made by Alloy Metal Products. It's what most of the Mustang guys use. I don't know what else they make. For the Mopars, M&H is the way to go! Not sure if Alloy does custom stuff or not or what other makes, if any.

Cheers
Dave

Well men........ I've made a decision. As REO Speedwagon said...."And I can't fight this feeeeelin' anymoooore"....meh, you know what I'm talking about. Let the Bullitization Begin!!! Ohohohohyyyeeaaahh!!:headbang::drool:

Cheers:beers:

Dave

----Sooo,,, You are going to weld the camera pipes on the floorpan? Oh,,, and the tape residue on the tach face? Come-on, Dave lets get this bullet resto cranked up!? ......Bill S

Ha! Yeah...i don't think I'm going to go that far, but ever since the Hero Car has been found I've got Bullitt on the Brain and... much like that Charger.... can't shake it! :wink:

Now, you's guys know me. If I'm going to do this into a Hero Bullitt look-a-like, gotta do it right! So in the parts bin are Firestone G70s, stock 2" pipes through the resonators only with straight pipe out the back, 67 Grille, no emblems on the outside, covered back up light holes on the rear valance, blacked out gas cap, 67 Shelby GT500 steering wheel wrapped in black leather, Hurst shifter.

Now, the plan is to make this all reversible, or bolt on,
so when the car gets a new owner it can be bright back to stock easily sans an interior redo. For the rocker moldings, I'll take the car to the vinyl wrap place and have them vinyl wrap them instead of paint for durability and easy removal. Also, I'll have them do the edge of the trunk lid filing the emblem holes but removable later. Fender emblem holes will be filled with painted plugs... again... easily removable. One option my car came with was the center console which won't be reinstalled. The Am 8-Track and the uber rarer convenience group in the center dash will be reinstalled.

Under the hood it'll be stock with all the correct details for a 68, but no Thermactor and no stock air cleaner. Although I'll have these parts for ease of restoring to stock if preferred later.

I gotta tell ya.... I'm really excited about doing this! Of course, all the assembly line details will remain with markings, techniques, finishes, tags, paint blops. In the end, I think it'll really pull together nicely. And if not... you heard it here first when it makes the news as the biggest flop in Automotive Restoration History!!:thumbsdown:

So.... here's some parts and a 67 Grille installed. More this week!!

Cheers
Dave

My car has the 8000 RPM tach and as such, came with a tripometer. Bullitt did too. The clock will be rebuilt as well, but the faces of the gauges are in great shape. And look at those original miles!!:laugh:

And this is why it takes 5hrs to install 3 parts. The radiator to hood seal.... the got the ribbing right and then failed on the length. Interesting thing on mine.... usually this is stapled to the metal support but mine was clipped on. And enter the winner for the Worst Designed Part of 2018 so far [ I haven't seen the rest yet ahs the year is still pretty early so I expect this to Award to be usurped] are the rear bumper guards. The closest one is the correct fit and the lower one is how it comes. :hmmm::rolleyes2:

Cheers
Dave

Great descision to Bullettizzze it!

Incredible workmanship!!!

Ryan

Ahhh. The joy of fitting reproduction parts. Nothing like it.

The 67 Grill looks like it fit pretty well, or did you have to use the sledge hammer (in the photo, on the floor) to ease it into place.

Detail looks great Dave. Keep up the good work.

I'll PM you my address so you know where to ship this when it is done ;)

----Dave,,,At least the hood seal is too long. I expected it to be too short until I saw the pic! You should also make provisions for the fake tire smoke that was plumbed into one of the rear wheelwells,,,LOL!.....Bill S

Yep... when dealing with parts made 6500 miles away, sometimes some "persuasion" is in order! :grin: And carpet installation 101: 1. Lay out the supposedly, molded, carpet and see how lousy it fits. 2. Wonder if Taka or some other make made a Mustang model since this carpet doesn't remotely fit a Ford Mustang. 3. Get out a lot of glue and go to town! 4. Position carpet wrong and realize directions mean what they say about "instant bond". 5. Sell car to Phil unfinished with strategically offset carpet permanently glued down.:frown:

But seriously.... yesterday was Heater Box restoration day and the carpet and side sills are in! I also went with the Accessory Panels to really make it pop when you open the door. More interior work to come today!

Oh.... and since I'm shipping the car back to Ohio, instead of the fresh Bullitt plates... maybe I need to restore the plates that came with the car? :hmmm::biggthumpup::3gears:

Cheers
Dave

Moving right along.... I'm into the interior. Step one was to mask things off and spray the Metallic Black funk down on the dash frame. Red Oxide visible on the underside and firewall and notice the inspection markings on the wiper motor. Also, the pivot transmissions had yellow and green marks on them, much like the suspension markings do signifying L and R. Will anyone notice this? No... but I will! Once that was done I turned my attention to the instrument cluster. I went with a Scott Drake clock, bezel, and lenses. Extremely happy with the quality of these parts. I left the factory installed surface rust on the back of the cluster housing for sentimental reasons. :eek2: After all, much like freshly painted car waiting for its first ding, I'm heading this confrontation off at the pass by leaving this little bit of flash rust on the car so no other rust forms! :rolleyes2::hmmm::bs:

Heater Box, main wiring, and today defroster vents, dashpad and bezels go in. Notice on the instrument cluster the "Brake" light is not installed. Since my car has the uber rare convenience group, that's incorporated into that panel and instead of "Brake" it says "Park". Another neat thing is the seatbelt warning light says "Belts" yet the aftermarket lens you can buy say "Seat". Why they can't get that right is beyond me, but I kept the original bezels and lenses.

More to come!

Cheers
Dave

Moving right along, transmission redone! What needed to be replaced? That would be everything:thumbsdown::mad2: But, the good news is with 100% new everything, it'll take a beating while chasing that Charger!:3gears: Sadly, water filled the case and while the gears were free, they were pretty badly pitted. And looking closer...123426.... the last 6 of my VIN! I didn't know Ford stamped the transmissions that year. I know on Mopars it was hit and miss. Pretty excited to difinitively know the engine and trans and 100% "Born With" [Who the heck came up with that stupid term, anyway?:thumbsdown:]. Anywho, I replicated all the markings I found so it's ready to meet up with its partner.... the Boat Anchor 390.... that I get back tomorrow from the engine shop. Very exciting! Sending unit with the low fuel warning sensor, original steering box, and AM 8-Track all sent out for restoration.

And this sweet looking '67 GT500 steering wheel... just like Frank used.... Will be dropped off at the upholstery guy to get leather wrapped. I really like that wood look though. Speaking of seats... it's time to join the Blister Battalion and recover those bleached out buckets! Man that's a lot of Bs...I personally like Ds... but that's neither here nor there. :hmmm:

Mo' to come! :eek2:

Cheers

Dave

A three hundred word post..... and I am focused on the D’s :-)

Ryan

Engine back! It's all coming together and more importantly.... everything numbers matching original! More to come next week!

Cheers
Dave

I love those FE engines, but you are going to have to remove the rocker shafts and all of those push rods to install the intake manifold.

Dave, that was great, what a great find :beers:

Saaaamokin’!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys! Yeah, I know all that comes off but that's no biggie. I'm FE certified!! Errr...a certified nutjob, maybe:laugh:

Stay tuned.... more to come next week!

Cheers
Dave

So impressive...man what a great job Dave. Love the commentary too. Can't wait to see the engine between the fenders.
Did you build the engine back stock?

What a week..... two steps forward, seventeen back! But, I'm making progress. Engine is just about done. I found a date coded thermostatic vacuum switch to round out the whole package! Oil pan will be in next week. Carburetor is being done by Eric, and I should have the correct 68 only aircleaner done sometime next week too. Meanwhile, onto the front suspension. Disk brakes up next! Lines are laying in place and there's a host of suspension markings and such get all situated.

But first...I have to go to recurrent training this weekend. Bleh! I can see it now...."So Dave.... what's the maximum landing weight of the 767-300?:scholar:" "Oh.. um... that would be the maximum weight at which the aircraft can land..... and did you know that if you squint real hard you can increase your vision 10%?":biggthumpup: Hmmm... maybe I should go study:tongue:

Cheers
Dave

So is a Ford motor such a boat ancor that you must use the bottle Jack to keep it from breaking you engine stand....:dunno:
Sorry Dave I could not help myself...:naughty:
Really lookin' good.

Mike

Looking awesome!:biggthumpup:

Dang that's some fine work you are doing there! That 390 is beautiful!

Thanks guys! Now, Mike. Yes, a 390 Ford actually was designed originally for the marine industry. But a boat Anchor? Pffflllppp..... actually, I think it breaks down like this and it clearly shows its nautical roots::scholar:

390 Ford Parts Weight Conversion Chart:

1. Cylinder Heads: Turrets from the Merrimack
2. Intake Manifold: 16" Shell slug from the Missouri
3. Water Pump: Anchor chain from the Mauritania
4. Crankshaft: Recycled propeller from the Bismarck

I think that sums it up.......:biggthumpup:

Cheers:beers:
Dave

It's the detail time! Not a whole lot to show in pics, but the big thing will be the engine being reunited with the transmission today and hopefully installed in the car early next month. :headbang: In preps for the major lift, I created Jigasaurus II. :thumbsdown: Now, you guys may remember me from Jigasaurus I which held the fenders and other parts while painting them. But what you may not realize I had a series of instructional videos entitled "How to mothball your battleship" and "Dig your own grave, and SAVE!":rolleyes2::D

So, I created a nice bracket to bolt to the engine that keeps chains and other parts away from the fresh paint and shiney things. Being a math major, I triangulate the hypotenuse from the third side which told me the fulcrum I needed topwise to get an equalarium balance on the motor:scholar::dunno: Err.... something like that. Anyway, this sturdy bracket will make installation a breeze!

G70 Bias Plys are mounted up, and the front disks are loaded and installed. Brake and fuel lines are in too. Next up is undercoating on the wheel wells. I'm waiting on my gears for the rear. I'm going with 3.90 Super Positrack. What's that? Well... instead of being more oompf off the line, it actually puts out a tractor beam pulling the car in front of you backwards making you that much more faster! I know.... cool huh? :wink:

More later... pics of the engine matted up to come!

Cheers
Dave

Your projects are amazingly well done and the attention to detail is awesome.

Killer. You're a freaking hoot, man. Your threads are always fun to read through.

https://media.giphy.com/media/LrJghj0AZEjSg/giphy.gif

If ever there was a Ford I would like to own the Bullitt replica would be it. Looking great, enjoy the ride!

Thanks guys! Some more details....I couldn't get the trans to mate up with the engine, so I just used those old bolts that hold the transmission on to cinch it on up! :wink: Just a few weird noises, but overall, seemed to go in ok. I think the new clutch disk may have caused the issue. This car isn't use to new stuff, so maybe like someone receiving a new spleen, it's the body rejecting the new parts? :dunno:

Pedals detailed up....I even kept the factory date stamp on it. Will anyone see it? Sure they will after I jamb their head up there! :biggthumpup: And according to my Buildsheet, my rear springs were marked white and orange, so I replicated that. Much like my front coils which were yellow/gold. Neat stuff! More to come.....

Cheers
Dave

Love the thread!!!

Ryan

Alrighty....3.90 Auburn Posi installed, and all the factory markings applied. That goopy-runny teal blop is pretty much spot on to what the original marking looked like. I had a new driveshaft made up since the original was so pitted. Good part? No pitting. Bad part? They painted it black even after I told them specifically to not paint it. :( Oh well. What can you do? Well.. you do what you usually do in situations like this and that's spray Aircraft Paint Stripper on it! :naughty: Works way better on paint than it does people.

After getting the shaft down to bare steel, I applied RPM to it so it remains nice and natural-metally. After that, I applied the stripes that designate 390-4spd. Yes, they are 3/4" wide with about 2" in between and hand applied. So it's slopcity down there! See, at Ford, quality is Job-None. So no need for all those neat lines like GMs have.

Engine and trans go in the first week or March! Woo-hoo!

Cheers:beers: