My fuel pump arrived today from Fred Ballard.

I decided that it is likely I will damage the original brake line running from the distribution block to the rear when I remove it (it is not cooperating at all right now even with persuasion in the form of penetrating oil) so I ordered a new one from Inline Tube along with their version of the flex hose to the rear axle lines and should have those by the weekend.

Fuel pump looks awesome!!:headbang:

Jake try a little heat on that brake line. I found when using a torch the heat will brake it free. Can't hurt!! Fuel pump looks great..

Jake,

Got any buddies with a repair shop by you? I'd bet they'd have something like this around......

https://www.jbtools.com/induction-in...EaAvD_EALw_wcB

Awesome for heating in tight spaces or in your case, keeping an open flame out. Back when GM had all of the fuel filters underneath and no one changed them til a problem occurred, this was the chit!

Tim

I have one of those and they are better than an open flame but he STILL needs to be careful with heat and brake fluid. It tends to expand a lot when heated above it's boiling point and can burst flex hoses.

Keep a wet towel around the brass block and lines you don't want heated and focus on just the flare nut to break it free. A propane torch will work, but keep the flame short and very sharp with just the point on the nut.
Also, and you probably know this, but use a line wrench to minimize distortion and slippage around the nut.

Update on the brake line...........life got in the way the last several weeks (all good and fun things) so I have not been able to spend much time solving this problem. I have soaked and soaked the fitting to no avail. I removed the distribution valve from the frame with the rear line still attached and last night tried heating it several times (to the point of being worried I was overheating it) and still no luck. I did buy a complete front to rear line set with the thought I'd just replace the whole line if I had to trash the original. After spending considerable time assessing the whole situation last night, replacing the whole line was not happening - at least not while laying on my back on the garage floor, so I picked a spot in the existing line that was straight and cut the line. Glad I did as the flare nut was rusted to the line where it goes into the valve and would not have moved with any of the methods I had available to me. The valve goes out today for rebuilding and I will gather the proper fittings to splice the original line together. I installed the rebuilt fuel pump and buttoned up most of the engine compartment with the exception of the fan and belts. Eventually I'll get there.......

Well that stinks, that the nut had to be such a PITA for you. Replacing a 1 piece brake, or fuel, line is nearly impossible with the body on. Can be done, but usually involves removing body bolts and lifting the body some.
Do you have access to a hydraulic double flaring tool for flaring the line on the car ? These are a wonderful tool for that and form a perfect double flare easily.
"Talking" on the internet, seems like we are just down the street and could help each other out with special tools, rather than hundreds of miles away...:frown:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...AC_SL1500_.jpg

My brother just got a new deluxe flaring tool that I'm sure he'd let me borrow.....:laugh:

A friend who owns a local shop also has the means to help so I think it will work out. Thanks for the suggestions.

FWI, I have replaced a front to rear brake line on a '67 Chevelle, on jack stands, without lifting the body. Should be similar to a '72.

Good luck! Bill W

Good to know Bill - it appears based on what I saw last night that there is one clip near the rear seat body mount that is fastened from the top and would be difficult (maybe not impossible) to remove and replace? Is that the only one?