My family and I are enjoying the car, I drive it often. Cars and Coffee, dropping my son (kindergarten) to school, or just going for a cruise. My youngest son (2) likes to hang out in the car at home like it's his playpen. He calls it the "Daddy Vroom Vroom" or the "Daddy Bus" (every car to him he calls bus).

I did run into a few issues. Under hard acceleration the alt pulley would cut into the factory style rad hose causing a leak so I swapped it out for a Gates 20827 that I trimmed to fit. Now I can put the pedal to the floor without wondering if I cut into the hose.

The other issue I ran into was on the way home from picking up pizza with my son, it began to smell rich and was low on power. I made it home and parked the car in the driveway. Later when I went to park the car in the garage it wouldn't fire but occasionally cough. I ended up flooding it so I pulled the plugs and changed the oil. I pulled the cap to discover the lead wire somehow got disconnected. I reconnected the wire and it fired right up with much more "bang". I wonder how long the lead wire had a bad connection.

I also bought a 70s era 8 track player that didnt pass bench testing. It will need repair so I'm sending it out for repairs before install. I am excited about getting that in. I even bought my first NOS 8 track cassette.

I have everything to rebuild the 12 bolt but just haven't got around to it.


More to come soon including hidden 2 step/rev limiter install (Omex Clubman), Original Hurst Chrome button line loc install, factory tach correction/added cable drive tach, subframe connectors

With the great weather we are having here I'm looking forward to taking it out this weekend.

Nice trouble shooting on the Primary lead wire.Was just talking to someone about your camaro and couldn't find this topic.
Thanks for bringing it back to the top.

Awesome update Jose. You are living the dream JB.

Jason

X2!!

X3!!!

Finally got around to adjusting the tach. I removed the driver seat, laid on my back with my head/arm behind the dash. With a small screwdriver I adjusted the tach and this is best I could get it. From idle to 2000rpm it reads around 150-200rpm too high but from 2000-7000rpm it's dead on. Prior to adjustment, when I was cruising at 2800rpm the tach would read around 3500rpm. The tach photo is when receiving a 3000rpm signal.

I also mocked up the line lock button.

How were you able to adjust the tach needle?

Jason's advice and photo from post 270:

I used a very small flathead screwdriver and with the power off I ever so slightly turned the what I'm assuming is the potentiometer screw counter clockwise. I retested and repeated until it was accurate to my liking. I read that it's possible to cause a short if the screwdriver touches the housing during adjustment which is why I did mine with the power off. It was tricky and I couldn't even see inside the opening for the potentiometer but I as I gently turned the screwdriver with the tips of my fingers I waited for it to fall into the slot, Once in the slot I felt a resistance as I turned the screwdriver. Luckily it only needed 2 adjustments. After adjustment I replaced the painters tape that I used to cover the hole.
With all of that said the tach needle itself when the car is off rests about 100-200rpm too high, but since my readings were accurate from 2000-7000rpm after adjustment it was fine by me.

Jose,

Did the tach always “zero”
At 100-200 or was that after the adjustment. Moving the potentiometer shouldn’t affect the zero reading.

I love the chrome line lock button. Fancy!

Jason

To clarify the tach never did rest at zero. The adjustment did not alter the resting position but it did make a huge improvement in the overall accuracy of the tach. Here is a photo of the tach off/zero rpm.