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Awesome!
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Nice work. I wish you lived closer.
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Pulled the clip over the weekend to start the final clean, sand, prep of the cowl for paint. Forgot there was a rust spot under the windshield that was hidden by the fender.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00691.JPG Started digging and had to pull the windshield, which was so heavily glued in with urethane that it was broken all to heck by the time I got it cut loose. I never suspected there was a serious issue with this window channel, as it all looked good, but a very talented urethane artist covered it all up while installing the windshield. What a friggen mess this turned into. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00692.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00693.JPG I just ordered a complete glass set from Auto city Glass and new dash panel, pad, GM approved wheel opening moldings and other assorted small goods from Camaro Central...ouch. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00694.JPG |
Wow!!:shocked:
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Mitch: Don't you know you are supposed to just cover all that up, paint it all purdy, then flip it to some unsuspecting newbie?
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I spy with my little eye a Marantz 2226?
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Well Mitch, you posted that at 11:13, I expect you have it all fixed by now? :wink:
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Wow, too bad that isn't a '67 Chevelle. I've got a perfect dash for one of those.
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Wild, I never would've expected that. You can do it!
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Lynn, I guess I'm the newbie. I bought it unsuspecting this was an issue 16 years ago.
Lee, yup, heck of a shop radio. Got it for free 30 years ago. Wife says she can hear the bass in the house 40 ft from the shop...:cool2: Dustin, I ordered a new dash panel this morning and cut off the glass channel to see how bad the 2 layers of inner/outer cowl was under it. Not good. Major surgery needed here. Freddie, YES, if I could find a good donor, this would be a walk in the park. Thanks for the confidence, Tony. I will get it repaired, but it sure is a setback I wasn't expecting. |
after a conversation with Dustin, who has a good friend who is an AMD dealer and installer, I purchased an OER cowl assembly from Jegs. His friend said it is a good fitting part with no fitment issues with the windshield. His friend advised I check Jegs as they sell them very reasonably and he was right. The price for the assembly WITH free shipping was less than many places wanted for just the top cowl panel. Jegs did add an over size fee..... $10 ! :laugh:Unbelievable deal to me.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...691-c11021.jpg I'll be picking up the glass set tomorrow and this may be here by the weekend. With that all happening so quickly, I got to work on the car. The hole in the left A pillar brace was cut out, a patch formed and welded in. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00695.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00701.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00703.JPG The right side is solid enough to leave, just did an initial clean up with the stone wheel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00704.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00705.JPG |
That AMD looks like a nice piece and probably the best for that repair.
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It's an OER brand, which is what AMD sells, as they don't have their own tooling for this. The dealer said it's actually made by CHL and sold to OER...:wink: I guess I'll see what stickers are on it when it gets here.
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Yes its a CHL piece, you would need a special decoder ring to figure out who makes what and if it fits/functions correctly... I dont even try to follow sheetmetal anymore - I let Spencer keep tabs on all that, as fast as he rattles it all off.
With Spencer's blessing and we all know the reality of finding a good donor cowl for a 67 Camaro Im glad I could help Mitch through this small hurdle. |
Good move, Mitch. You did the right thing.
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Well, the CHL cowl assembly got here at 11:45, so after lunch I took it out to the shop and got to work. I attached the cowl grille to see where I wanted to cut this in.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00708.JPG I drew a line around the grille and then used 1.250 wide tape to draw another inside that for the cut line. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00709.JPG About 15 minutes later, half of the ugly was gone. I was going to cut it thru the vent holes but I wasn't certain how close they would line up so cutting it here, the seam will be completely hidden under the grille. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00710.JPG I then clamped the cut off onto the new piece and marked that to cut. I haven't cut out the lower cowl yet, so I cut the new one long enough to trim back to fit....hopefully. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00711.JPG The new piece is quite accurate, except for the grille screw holes. 2 are good, but a third one is off 1/4" and the fourth....well, I don't know what happened here. If they are all getting stamped like this, someone needs to fix that die. Oh, well, minor issue it fix. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00712.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00715.JPG Had to cut thru the column brace to get enough of the lower cowl. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00716.JPG There almost done...:wink: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00717.JPG |
I'm REALLY slow at trimming away the extra material to get a donor to drop in place and after 4 hours, this does look quite good.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00718.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00719.JPG I'm going to leave the slight overlap on the lower cowl panel. It's going to be challenging enough to get this welded full width and having some overlap will make the seam sealing a little better. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00721.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00722.JPG The top lip, that is immediately under the dash panel, is way too straight and will need much massaging to get it to lay down flat, like the original. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00723.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00724.JPG . |
Looking good. Boy, does this make me thankful for how little rust I had to deal with my my 69 Z/28.
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This mornings endeavors. I secured the panel while clamped, with drill screws so I can put it right back in the same place after every removal for fitting, prepping, etc.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00729.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00728.JPG This is the left corner, that is badly out of place for the dash panel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00727.JPG I removed the panel and made a pie cut 8" long and 3/8" wide at the outside, tapering it to the inside. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00730.JPG Clamped it tight and drill screwed it in place. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00731.JPG That's the first modification. The entire lip needs to come down for the dash to lay on top, but after tapping the end down, it started to buckle, which I expected. Bending that lip down decreases the radius and the extra metal has to go somewhere. I'll need to make pie cut reliefs every 3-4 inches to get it to cooperate...:wink: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00732.JPG Before... https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00727.JPG . |
After a little more relocation work on the right corner, I did the cuts in the lip, bent them down and set it back in. The dash is sitting there very lightly touching the channel. I'm very pleased that it fits this well but the real test will be tomorrow when I set the windshield in it. I was going to do that today, but neglected to bring my glass suction cup handles into the heated shop from the back storage room, which is about minus 4 degrees today. They'll be warm in the morning.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00733.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00735.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00734.JPG .. |
Shortly after the last pics, we went to FL for 4 weeks, including the 5 days driving. My wife rode down but flew back, so I took a little detour to Richmond, KY on my way home.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...413798_HDR.jpg Quite the front room "shop" they have...:ooo: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph..._091457310.jpg I now have a new upper dash panel and dash pad for the car. Over the next few weeks, I hope to have this project done and painted. THEN, I can get started on fitting the NOS fenders I thought I was going to do several weeks ago...:rolleyes: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...433379_HDR.jpg My body guy has been bugging me to get wheel opening trim so we can drill the holes before going any further with paint, so I picked up the GM set that has the step in the rear trims to follow the body line at the lower door and quarter. Also grabbed a few small items to help fill needs down the road. With the crazy shipping costs of oversize items now, I saved about $100, so the few extra miles and gas, as well as getting to see the place and talk with them, was well worth it. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph..._141234113.jpg https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph..._141303953.jpg |
Removed the top dash panel. I don't like using spot weld drills when I want to save/use the panel below what I am removing. My preferred method is a grinding wheel. I grind around the perimeter of the spot and try to not cut into the substrate at all, or very little.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00840.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00841.JPG I use the grinder about the same way I mig weld, using short bursts and checking the color of the metal to "see" where the spot is and work around it until the metal is very thin and I can pop it off with a screw driver. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00843.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00842.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00844.JPG There were about 16 spot welds and it took about 15 minutes to remove them all. Less time than using a drill and stopping to observe that progress to prevent drilling thru the substrate panel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00845.JPG This is what I use... That wheel was used when I started and shows almost no wear after all that https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00847.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00848.JPG After this, I used a 2" disc sander with 120 and cleaned up the spots, removing any of the top panel that was left behind. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00846.JPG It does make a MUCH bigger mess than drilling. I use a shop vac with a HEPA bag filter inside. I can vacuum filler dust and dried overspray and it never comes out the exhaust. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00849.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00850.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00851.JPG It does fit and line up nicely, but It would be even better if the pre-punched holes for the trim clips and glass stops lined up with the holes in the cowl panel. It may well be the cowl that is off, as 3 of the 4 holes for the cowl grill aren't accurate either. Just a little more work later to drill the holes in the correct places. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00852.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00853.JPG |
After this, I wanted to finish sanding/cleaning/prepping to paint inside the cowl before I welded the top cowl panel patch on. I grabbed my Dent Fix Eliminator, otherwise commonly known as a crud thug, attached the air hose, depressed the lever and......nothing. Just air coming out the exhaust. Thing worked just fine a month ago and now nothing. I couldn't turn the wire wheel by hand, so knew something was seized up....dang. Long story, short, it took 45 minutes just to get the danged spring pin out of the handle to take this apart. I REALLY need to get a better set of small punches and I'll leave that part of the story alone. Anyway, I had an exploded view page in the kit and used that to figure out how to take it apart. It must have had moisture in it from the last time I used it and the vanes on the rotor stuck to the cylinder. I was able to work it enough to free it up and get it working again. That whole process consumed the last 1.5 hours of my time for this project last evening. Today, I used it and got everything cleaned up, papered and sprayed with SPI epoxy primer/sealer. Tomorrow will get Limco single stage color and then the cowl top will get welded on. Are all y'all bored to tears yet...:grin:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00855.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00856.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00857.JPG |
Went back out at 7 and shot the color on. There's a LOT more paint in that cowl than GM ever got, but they didn't have the cowl top off for access either.
I can start the final fitting and welding in of the cowl section right away tomorrow. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00858.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00859.JPG |
Looking great Mitch! Probably a relief to have that unexpected bump in the road finished.
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There was a lot more to this project. I still had to weld the replacement cowl piece in and the dash top on.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...xNLQVvDNmF.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...EtTszaiehN.JPG Steering column/instrument panel brace. It had 15 spot welds on it, but only THREE were holding. None of the rest penetrated. It's not going to fall off now.. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...CsKNRXcPtx.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...frax3XzwHU.JPG All done and working on sanding the entire instrument panel for paint. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00891.JPG https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...s/DSC00896.JPG |
Nice work.
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Wow!! Nice!!
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That was a couple weeks ago and I since removed the rear axle and springs assembly to clean and prep the new trunk floor for paint. THAT was a bear, laying on a creeper and getting as wet as the car. I still need to do finish grinding of welds in tight areas and sand them.
Soooo, I gave in and did what I said for 15 years I wasn't going to do with this car... Went out in the back shed and dug out the rotisserie... https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00907.JPG I bought this from a guy who built it to restore a '69 Firebird. It came with these adapters for the rear spring mounts, so I thought this would be a quick knockdown from the arms I built for the '67 GTO and my '66 Chevelle. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00908.JPG I spent 3 HOURS trying to figure out how he had those rear arms on the lifts, because no mater how I arranged the drilled holes he made they would NOT line up...:confused2: I finally gave in and just drilled new holes for them to fit the car and moved on. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00912.JPG I have 6' rectangle tubes to fit on the forks for this stuff. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00915.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00916.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00917.JPG |
This was an interesting discovery, especially since I've had this driveshaft out for 3 engine/trans changes over the years. I never noticed this before...:eek2:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00909.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00910.JPG . |
Oh my Mitch..:eek2:.....
Nice work by the way :biggthumpup: |
Lookin good Mitch!!
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I'm officially upside down on this project now...:laugh:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00980.JPG As I was cleaning the floor of 50+ yrs of oil and dirt, I found this blue/grey color paint. I had known it was there from the install of the left rear foorwell 5 years previous. It is on the entire floor and under every piece of bracketry that was installed after the car would have completed the paint process. I have documented this very extensively with color photos for future reference. In asking for info on the color, I kept getting doubters that it was factory and no real help, other than a few people replying, yes, they had a first gen out of LOS that had that color and couldn't find info either, so just painted theirs black during restoration. Anyway, I've been falsely accused of being overly persistent at times, so decided to live up to that and loaded the car on the roll back and transported it to my local PPG jobber for a paint read to get something close to repaint with. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00956.JPG After getting the mix the next day, I sanded some of the new black trunk floor, shot it with SPI grey epoxy and then did a spray out of the paint. I knew before I even opened the can that it was wrong, as it defaulted to an ISUZU silver color, but I needed a test spray to see it and decide what to do with the color from there. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00957.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00958.JPG Unfortunately, the guy that does the tinting only works 2 days a week and I had to wait until the next Wednesday to go back. In the interim, I used a color swatch set that my son has from his days at Sherwin Williams, custom mixing paint. We found a color that was VERY close to the original, so I went to the local SW store and got 2 of those swatches to make an area large enough for the color reader and went back to the jobber on Wednesday. I showed him the pics on my phone and he said there was no way for him to get the grey to what I needed and that the reader didn't work properly, so he calibrated it and read the swatches. It came up with a completely different code that was close but still off. By removing equal amounts of black and white from the formula, he was able to add blue and it is very close to the samples. It was a little too blue, but by adding a small amount of the previous grey into it, I was able to get this color. I'd like to add, that Carl, the jobber guy, said it was clearly an error with the reader and made up a whole new batch and played with tinting and comparing to the samples for almost an hour at NO CHARGE !! I couldn't thank him enough for his help https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00959.JPG At this point, I'm OK with the color and it will be the entire floor, so not trying to get a perfect match to blend in. I proceeded to look all my blasting paraphernalia and after 7 hours of digging thru boxes and on shelves, I couldn't find the screen to reuse the media or replacement ceramic nozzles for the dead man valve, so they will be here this next week. Not a big disappointment for loss of time, as it has been cloudy/rainy and windy here and not conducive to blasting in the driveway. Looks like Wednesday this week will be the day. |
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...501_134426.jpg
Seam sealed and papered for color. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00986.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00989.JPG Looks completely different under the lights. Waiting on clear coat and then undercoat the wheel wells. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00990.JPG |
Boy is it coming together nicely Mitch!!
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Today's project involved getting paint on the frame rail under the roto arm. I first held the body on just the jack stands, but they were a bit too wobbly for my liking. I held slight pressure under the torque boxes with the pallet and a couple 2x4's for stability.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00991.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00992.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00993.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00994.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00995.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00997.JPG |
Is it too late to say the floor plugs should not be painted? :)
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Are you referring to the drain plates, Jon ? They were painted and I have a lot of pics of that before sand blasting.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...s/DSC00921.JPG |
Mitch, if yours were originally painted then you did the right thing. Sometimes they were not and I'm not sure that it has been determined if there was a pattern as to when either occurred.
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Thanks, Jon. I even found remnants of paint on the rubber and plastic plugs but most fell off when I removed them. I have new plugs coming, but don't have plans to paint them... LOL All that was under the plastic plugs was the tan colored rust preventive coating after the last body rinse.
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