Order the stop hops now and have them on hand for when you can get the car in for the pinion. Get the bars installed at the same time ..:wink:

That's what I've been thinking also Mitch. Although i would be able to install the bars myself

I did get the new pinion yoke and Ratech seal installed - so now we'll see how that goes, hopefully all will be fine.
The mechanic didn't want to install the Stop Hop bars. That's OK - no problem.
But reading the instructions They talk about the pinion angle and keeping it the same. i guess I thought the bars would be designed - so that when bolted in place - they would keep the pinion angle in the stock factory location, but maybe I'm wrong ?????
But lets say I don't install the Stop Hop bars - what shocks should I try to stop the wheel hop? Will shocks alone stop the wheel hop?
Thanks for the help - any and all is appreciated

No, shocks along won't help much.
I think the hop instructions mention the pinion angle to cover their rear and for the installer/owner to check that angle. The 2 pair I installed did not change it enough to mess with.

Removing the original rubber bushings from the control arms and installing polyurithane bushings will make a huge difference.

Ouch - the new pinion yoke and Ratech seal are leaking. At this point i don't even know what it's going to take to stop it from leaking. But we'll try again - what else can I do.

Doing some measuring while I wait on he mechanic to work on the pinion seal again - I've done some measuring and angle finding.
Looks like I need to lower the rear of my car - as the rear lower control arms are pointing upwards about 8 degrees. I don't know that I understand why, as the rear springs are from a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 that didn't have A/C or anything on it.
Is there a known good spring for these cars - or should I get lowering springs?
Anyway, if I can get the lower control arms level that should angle the top control arms down - hopefully that would help my wheel hop problem.
Thanks for any help!!!!!

Tom inspect leak closely and make sure leak isn't weeping through pinion/yoke splines I always add permatex to splines on end of yoke when I assemble a rear for this reason

Thanks Zman. Yes, that is what the mechanic doing this work for me has been doing, I've watched him each time. And the drip is not coming from the area around the pinion nut - it's on the dust shield part of the yoke. There is also no drip or oil film on the bottom of the rear end housing (like the leak was around the outside of the seal).
I did find an old picture of the 1969 Chevelle SS I had in 1969 - and the rear end of the car is sitting much lower than the 1969 Chevelle I have now. I don't really understand why, as I have what I believe to be "stock" used 1970 Chevelle SS rear springs now. Of course I don't know if someone changed the springs in the 1970 Chevelle, that these springs came out of, years ago - and they are not really stock.
But anyway, I will need to get some springs that will lower the my car in the rear about 2 1/2 inches.
If anyone has any information on rear springs that will set the car at stock ride height - I could sure use the help.
Thanks

I ordered some rear springs from Summit Racing - BMR SP014 - that were supposed to lower the car 1" ..... but mine only dropped about 3/8" .... I ordered these after talking to tech support at BMR. I called their tech dept. again and they said to loosen the control arm bushing bolts and re-tighten at ride height - I did that but it didn't help.
So now I've ordered their 2" drop springs - they should be here about Monday and hopefully they will drop the car down.
Again - if anyone has any information on rear springs that will put the car at a ride height that will help control rear axle hop - please let me know.