I think Bill is talking about "Southside Machine Bars". This is a brand name but they locate the rear of the lower control arm lower than stock. I've used them in the past and noticed no difference in ride quality. JMO

These bars don't affect the ride at all. The bars that are similar to leaf spring bars might. The holes in the 3 "fingers" would require you to drill thru the "fins" on the diff housing for a long bolt to go thru. If you prefer to not do that, they still work well.

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...a1-5213_xl.jpg

Yes, the QA-1 bars are the ones I am considering - but I did see where one person had said they made the car ride worse. But you can hear anything, especially in the internet era.
The South Side Machine bars are not legal for the Pure Stock Muscle Car Races.

If the QA-1 bars help with traction - as well as stopping the wheel hop - I should be able to get my 60 foot times into the 1.9 sec. area - as I had several 2.07 60 foot times this year.

Sorry, I glossed over the part that you were participating in the pure stock drags. Olredalert, my apologies if I put words in your mouth about what you were referencing.

What are you running for shock absorbers ? Good, HD shocks will help curb the rebound of the diff/springs releasing tension. The stop hop bars relocate the upper control arm higher at the diff to give the suspension a better geometry to combat the hopping.

----Thanks for a better explanation, Mitch. Yes, stop hop bars push the instant center about three feet forward and the result is no hop! Used them on Red Alert with great outcome....Bill S

I don’t have a wheel hop issue, I think mostly as I used my original coil springs and the lower control arms are horizontal.

I have lots of upgrades coming for PSMCDR 2024, hop stop bars, 4.10 gears, solid upper and lower rear control arms, air bags, station wagon brakes, you name it!!!

Great to meet!!

Ryan W31

Ryan, I assume you mean tubular control arms but with urethane bushings ?

The '70 SS I bought in '73 had solid arms with no bushings and no provision to grease anything. The holes in the diff and frame brackets were pounded out almost twice the size from the PO racing it. I had to get new, original, arms from the dealer, center everything with a tape and weld washers on all the brackets to keep it in place.

I am keeping things very close to stock, Just going to change to Hotchkiss control arms that look stock (I’ll take off the silly stickers) but are more rigid than my original FE2 boxed lowers and open uppers.

PS: even though Al Stager ordered FE2 rear suspension it didn’t come with the rear lower frame braces so I added those…. I am confident they also help prevent wheel hop by connecting and triangulating between upper and lower rear control arms.

Ryan W31

I'm using KYB Gas-Adjust mono-tube shocks, and the car has the rear lower frame braces along with boxed lower control arms and the rear anti-sway bar. And as I've mentioned it has all new Moog control arm bushings. Car is not jacked-up and the lower control arms set fairly level. Car has stock rear coil springs from a 1970 SS Chevelle - I mentioned earlier in this thread that the car had extra tall and awful stiff springs in it when I got it. Some people though that was because of the slicks that must have been used on it at some time in the past.
But whatever - I'm experiencing wheel hop and it must be stopped.
Right now I need to get the pinion leak stopped. All the new parts have arrived so I've got to get the mechanic to give me a date to bring the car.