Chuck, hurry up and finish it :)



We'll be out your way in December (maybe even in September, too) Looks great....

Thank you, I agree. I sent them to a guy around the corner from my work and he did a great job. He did a nice job between the fins too. $200

Thank you Bruce! I'm trying to finish it! Seems like every time I take one step forward I take two steps back.

The week before last, we tried to fire it up with no success... I want to make sure there are no engine leaks before we put the front end sheet metal on the car. It didn't leak two years ago when the engine ran on the run stand, but better safe than sorry. When we went to start it, the engine would only run on 4 cylinders. Turns out the ignition module inside the MSD took a crap. Going to give it another whirl this afternoon with a new module...

Another step backwards was an issue with the paint on top of the left 1/4 panel. Unfortunately the paint began bubbling. I figure it was corrosion starting... When my painter sanded the paint off we found no evidence of rust. My guess is it was moisture under the paint, maybe another form of contaminant like oil or something. This was stressful because so many of the restored parts are already on the car... Luckily my painter took his time masking everything with cars! He was able to spot the area with paint but had to blend the clear into the roof and right 1/4. Repair looks great but now I need to sand it back down and polish it all over again. My buddy and I spent 4 days polishing this car the last time.... I mean this is FUN right? :hmmm: At least we caught this early on and the paint matches perfectly.

Chuck...I was just funnin' with ya! It looks amazing still.



It's fun, just remember that :)


:headbang::headbang::headbang:

For starters, the engine is ALIVE!!! It sounds WICKED, killer idle and nice crisp throttle response! BTCHIN'. I need to make a YouTube account so I can post videos.
For those of you who have Instagram, you can follow me at day2_bowtie and hear it.

Unfortunately the tachometer doesn't work :hmmm:

The tach is a Stewart Warner 977 J pedestal mount. The ignition is MSD Ready to Run (more or less and HEI system). I have tried using SW 990B and 990D Ignition Monitors with no success. The tach does have some function. If I plug the tach wire directly into the tach signal from the dizzy, the tach reads 3,000rpm when the engine is really at 900rpm. At this point, I'm thinking I will just send the gauge out to be retro fitted with better guts. Anyone have experience with D&M Restoration?

Sorry to hear about the paint issue. It does look great again and he cleared A LOT of the car to blend well, but, yeah, buffing the second time won't be quite as much fun as the first time...:tongue:

Yesterday ordered a driveshaft from a local drive shaft shop. 3-1/2" steel with Sonnax chromoly slip yoke. 1350 u-joints.

Sent my tach out to Chris Schlaff in Michigan to get it working again, thanks Jose for referring me to Chris.

Next will be installing windshield and rear glass then front sheet metal....

D&M is a stones throw from my house - they did my clocks and my mechanical oil pressure gauge for my vette, quick and great work.
That being said regarding a MSD - I know on my factory TI system I have to hook my tune up tach to the positive side of the coil.

For sure. Chris turned my tach around in about 4 days. It works perfectly now. I retained the Ignition Monitor just for looks. I took the resistors out of one and just added a jumper wire from the ignition terminal to the tach terminal. Hoping to get the front end put on it soon.... Having a problem with the lower valance and grill fitment, going to require a little metal work to get it just right.

I got my driveshaft built by a local shop here, Driveshaft Pro. 3-1/2" steel with Sonnax slip yoke and 1350 Spicer u-joints. I was reluctant to add holes to my virgin floors for a driveshaft loop but decided it was for the best. I had an old Lakewood universal loop but didn't like how it fit, seemed too many mods to the floor would be needed and there wasn't much clearance with the larger than stock u-joint and drive shaft. I ended up buying a loop from Metco Motorsports which mounts to the tunnel instead of the floor. Lower profile and more clearance as it is perfectly round and has a 6-1/2" diameter.

Loop install...