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A couple items worth noting. Found the key tag in between seat cushions, unfortunately it doesn't match car. Also an interior broadcast sheet turned up.
Not done with degreasing the engine, but getting started on firewall. First scrubbed with full strength Purple Power, then heavy compound followed by light compound and then wax. A lot of work!! About this time I discovered NAPA Aluminum Brightener. What used to be 3-4 hours now became less than an hour! It cuts right through that desert hard pan grime. With progress moving along more quickly I worked from the firewall to the inner fenders and to the core support, removing components for thorough cleaning. Note the peeling paint on the RF fender inner jamb, more on that later. |
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Here are a couple of products I used to clean my engine compartment. Thought it may help.
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At this point I've not yet pulled the fenders, just concentration on engine and under hood sheet metal components. An example is before and after of the original voltage regulator. All the smog system was removed and given the same treatment along with alternator, pulleys and all brackets and attending hardware. The Brightener works great on wiring harness also!
I really don't want to know how many hours I've spent cleaning!! |
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I found you need to be care ful with the scotch pads as they can scratch. I have even used very fine steel wool. The citrus stuff and simple green works when you let it soak. In the end it will look much better!
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No scotchbrite or other abrasives used used here. Just Alum Brightener applied with microfiber cloths followed by wax. Also some items into the Evapo-Rust. |
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A few numbers:
The trim tag indicates a Fisher body date of 10B at the Fremont CA plant, the 95th Concours body for Fremont production. The block casting number is blocked by the Powerglide kick down bracket but with a mirror I was able to verify 3892657, the correct block for all '67 327 until late '67 production. Block casting date is H306, August 30 '66). Stamp V0915EC, Flint September 15, EC = L30 327 A/T AIR. 61 Amp alternator 6J12, September 12 '66 0711 brake booster, power drum brake, Julian date 220 Barely visible is wiper motor yellow ink Julian date 206 Large rad tag is gone but small tag CF Note chalk mark on RH cyl head |
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My Intension is to keep painting to bare minimum. Exception, the water pump. It had a parts store pump with a loose bearing. I ordered up a properly dated 608 pump from Bill Mock, it came bare cast, so I rattle-canned a fog of orange, thin enough to not appear fresh.
The timing cover has obviously been removed, so thinking the chain and nylon gear were replaced at some point. |
----Bill,,,Is that master cylinder the original? I'm thinking that it doesn't resemble what I'm used to seeing as the car has power drum brakes, not disc brakes.....Bill S
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By my October '67 dated parts book '67 drum brake Chevelle and Camaro, with or without power, use the same BS master, or can be stamped CT?? '67 Chevelle power drum masters use a different casting with bleeders, but still stamped BS, like the attached image. My friendly NAPA guy ordered in four remans, and one is a casting mostly similar to original. My buddy Merl set it up in his mill and duplicated the machined pads followed by installation of dummy bleeders. I need to go upstairs and find a suitable cap and correct early, straight bail. Still looking for a real, correct master though. |
Loving this thread Bill - keep em' coming.
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----Adapt and overcome,,,LOL! Very good duplicate.....Bill S
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Just for you Bill :biggthumpup:
Masked off the machined areas on the clone master, light spray of semi gloss black, bench bled and install. Solid brake pedal, all good. A bit of wiping with DOT 3 on a towel to thin down paint and replicate years of spilled fluid. Mission accomplished, the lid is even starting to look OK, The later bail on an early car needs to be addressed though. |
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At the rear, as rough as it is, I couldn't bear to scrap the original mat. Left it in place and covered it with this nice piece from R.E.M.
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Moving forward...Pulling the front clip exposed more mess. With cleaning coming to a point of diminishing returns I am happy to have exposed some decent engine paint along with the other under hood finishes.
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The last time this Chevelle ran was six years ago when I limped it the couple miles here from the old house. Time to get it purring again!!
The rad was cleaned and checked and reinstalled with fresh hoses. Along with the water pump the smog system was freshed, I blocked the smog tubes, removed the pump vanes and replaced the bearings. The alternator received new bearings and brushes. The carb was cleaned and kitted as well. Pulled the distributor, cleaned and lubed, free up mech advance, new vac can and install a one wire module kit. Now the 'ol L30 lights up and runs great! Starts with a touch of the key. |
Boy, is that a clean car!
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Super Cool Wagon
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Bill,
What can I say, besides I’m late to this long top party. There is so much to cover on this Yenko site that I completely missed your thread on this Awesome ‘67 wagon. Boy I love Red interiors on 60’s cars. I also have a stash of excellent Survivor quality GTO items from 40+ years that comes in handy, such as your spare dash that this wagon needed. I seem to like the same types of cars that you like (patina here, cracking over there and a few rub through in spots), which is typically on a Survivor car. You can’t duplicate that. Do I see 97K plus on the odometer? Fremont built cars (64-67+) had the TT / Data Plate crudely masked off which yours shows. I’ve seen a few BF cars that were painted black but the majority were taped off. You did good on the orange fogged water pump and brake fluid drippings. Inner fender skirts look awesome after cleaning. Fremont bumper jack bases are a rectangular black painted version, whereas the back east (Pontiac cars) plants typically used a square blue painted base. There are so many products available for cleaning and detailing our Survivor cars, but a couple I’ve used since the 70’s is “never dull” and “bronze wool”. Love the license plate frames with the black & yellows. The full tint glass all windows, which is recommended with AC cars looks nice with the white body. This summer, turn on that air condition in that beautiful red interior and head out. I’ll be following this thread now. Chris. |
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----I've never seen that center mount smog pump set-up. Hate to try to find formed hoses for that, Bill! The clean up is going pretty smoothly. Looks great....Bill S
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I am also a big fan of 60's red interiors especially in white cars. Odometer shows 07722.0, so rolled over. The L30 runs amazingly well, smooth and quiet, no smoke, added one quart to drive from CA. I see nothing to indicate the heads have ever been off (French locks are still in place!) but I'm sure the timing chain has been replaced. As you noted, masking of the TT was strictly a Fremont thing on for a '67 Chevelle. Fremont jacks, have you observed any predominance of either the tube or the tee style shafts? Follow along as I take this project over the hump. :beers: |
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Time to wipe the ugly off this ride!
Bumpers, and front sheet metal removed. CAREFULLY removed all that 60 plus feet of body side moldings, tailgate trim and emblems. I do not have a spare of the tailgate "Concours" emblem, and the attaching barrel clips did not want to let go! I spent an hour finessing it off, thinking it would surely break! I removed the door panels, necessary to remove the door handles and also to salvage the unique side molding clips. I tried to source all new clips but the pictured rectangular plastic clips were not to be found. With the door panels off I cleaned and lubed window regulators and door latches etc. As previously mentioned, the RF fender had been replaced with a used and painted white. Strangely, this fender must have came from a cheapo 300 series as it had no holes other than for antenna, not even an engine call-out. Using trim from my stash and measurements from the other fender the appropriate hole were drilled. Also, the fender paint had some peeling on the inner under hood jamb, so that was prepped and painted. |
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I've had this MBX rubber wheel vinyl removal tool for many years, but it did not work well here. What remained of the original vinyl was mostly dried up adhesive and the bottom layer of the vinyl film.
After trying several removers, chemicals etc, I resorted to oven cleaner and a single edge razor blade on a handle. This actually worked pretty well but still a tedious task! First application removed most of it, followed by another to remove leftovers. Then a wipe down with denatured alcohol. |
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The area behind the gas door is painted brown to prevent a body color outline breaking up the woodgrain.
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With wagon all naked and embarrassed it's time to bring life back the the chalked out paint.
First a color sand with 1,000 grit, then 1,500, 2,500, 3,000, and finally 5,000. Next Presta 2step, applied with a buffer, followed by Collinite 845 applied by hand, The woodgrain areas were sanded with 220. Now it's ready for woodgrain!! |
Wow - what a transformation.
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----Wow, just Wow, Bill! I would never have imagined this. Very cool!.....Bill S
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Geezzz Bill,
Where do you find the energy? Must be love of an old car. I’m impressed :worship: |
You’re amazing, Bill. Components that look hopeless turn out very nice with the proper cleaning. You’re just applying this theory to the entire car.
You must have a nice heated garage. |
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Yes, I am amazed sometimes what nice finishes are hidding just under a layer of grime, just waiting to be found! With in floor radiant heat and A/C keeps one motivated to work!! I always said I wanted a garage with attached house! DD garage, shop and utility rooms are almost equal to footprint of the house. Don't have to go outside when it's cold!!! Cars and tow rig are in a separate building. |
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Vinyl application...3M Di-Noc Dark Walnut. Di-Noc is actually mentioned in The AIM. A 5 yard roll was just right. I have always preferred dry application of vinyl, and fortunately dry is what was specified.
I started with the fenders and added the trim before moving towards the rear. Pretty straight forward, applied an adhesion promoter on edges and a heat gun to wrap edges. The fenders needed to be off to wrap the rear edges of the fenders and forward edges of the front doors. Also the fender trim clips are retained with nuts on the back side. To have enough vinyl to properly wrap the gas door and opening required using a separate piece and line up the grain to match pattern. |
67 Wagon...
It just keeps getting better with each step of the process...definitely one of the best SYC 'follow along' threads I've seen.
Great work... -wilma |
This thread is so darn good, it warrants its own dedicated folder on my PC.
First wagon in my archives. The way this ‘67 is progressing, with the finish line in site, it will stack up and belong with all your other spectacular Survivors. Great job! |
Wow, that looks amazing Bill, it's really gonna pop with the red interior! Now I want a wagon too.
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Bill, this is awesome! Amazing work all around! Result is fantastic
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I’m always searching old vintage ads for my cars and moved over to Chevrolet yesterday to see what I could find in relation to Bill W. wagon.
I was able to find a couple ads including this one. Cool ad, except no killer Red interior. Plus no tint glass - all windows, so possibly no AC on this car. |
----Chris, It's almost like the person ordering this wagon was looking at this pic, but liked red interiors. The Di-Noc is spectacular, Bill! What a great job.....Bill S
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wOW, I am super impressed with your skills and how this Wagon is turning out. Really enjoying see this progress.:beers:
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