PLEASE RESEARCH service providers, I nearly sent my pump to Goat Hill 2 years ago until I did research. Not confident with what I heard about GH - I kept it in the box until I was sure about the person I decided to have rebuild it.
After more research and questions = I called Fred Ballard - after speaking with him I was willing to send it off.
I was not at all disappointed - Fred had my pump back to me within 2 weeks. It works great and my car runs better than ever... FWIW when it went bad it sent a bunch of crap into both sintered brass filters in the fuelbowls.

People do more research and googling before going to see a movie, out to a new restaurant or buying a Flat Screen TV then they seem to do before buying some cars or sending rare parts out to be refurbished. No reason for it in this day and age. Car community is strong and at your fingertips for advice

GOAT HILL screwed me............
I sent him Two 70 Camaro Z28 Fuel Pumps
and he did return them with CLEAR ZINC
Lower Steel Bottoms ...NOT Yellow Zinc.....

How can I use these on a restoration ????? and I dont know what
my current options are..........Pay "Fred" To do them over ????

Yes. Pay Fred to do them correct.

This is Fred Ballard. The reason behind the pricing not being dfferent between a "survivor" and a restoration is two fold. When I am doing restorations, I do them in batches and the plating costs divided among a group of pumps make the plating fairly inexpensive and therefore not a factor in pricing. Also please note that the plating is actually zinc dichromate as done originally by the OEM. The colors of the dichromate can vary widely from green to red but mostly in the gold range. I have also reworked my assembly dies to the point that it is hard to tell that the pump was ever apart. Being as I do GM, Chrysler and Ford pumps, the disassembly machine requires different setups. This takes time and effort for a single "survivor" pump which actually takes me more time than doing a group of restorations. Therefore, it actually costs me more to do a "survivor" over a restoration. I am just trying to give everybody options. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

-Fred-

Recent example of Freds handiwork.
"Survivor" work.
That is his number on mounting surface, and you can see the little cut needed

Factory installed pump from "OLE BLUE".
Feb 69 L78 M22 Baltimore car.

Last pic is as sent.
It was grimy- slimy so I cleaned it with brake cleaner.

Looks same to me.

I just sent another pump to Fred for a survivor rebuild.
Great guy to work with.

I know the guy that bought my old 69 Chevelle SS396 convertible sent the original fuel pump (which I had saved but never had rebuilt) to Fred and had it rebuilt. He was very satisfied with the work.

Just for reference, the "little cut" is not a cut but rather an engraved line to ensure the clocking of the fuel section to the casting. It is in a position that is not that visible once installed. The original clocking had pinched metal at the same position and 180 from there for the factory clocking. This pinched area goes away when the machine disassembles the pump. Some of the GM fuel sections are used in different applications but are clocked differently. Therefore it is important to mark the clocking before disassembly.

-Fred-

Makes sense to me as it did not look like a cut.
Was just going with what others told me.

Can say it looks exactly the same as sent and works fine.

It doesn't mind 110 octane racing gas either.

I have two 40726 A/C Fuel Pumps

One has stamped CI or C1 40726
2nd Has stamped 197J 40726 (J as in Jack)

Please explain , I'm guessing that the 197J is the Original
to my 07E 1970 Z28 ????

Value of the CI pump ????? if I have Fred Restore ???

The "C" in "CI" is March. The "I" is 1969. "J" should be 1970. "H" is 1968 on the 2nd letter. You can see the pattern..Joe

X66 714 / Joe, Thanks for your decoding .........

1) Did the Julian Dating start in 1970 (with my 197J above) ??? Why is J 1970

Do you have charts or a source of info that judges use and you would share ?

What might The 40726 C (march) I (1969) have for value if Fred Restores ($295)

Pics of the Two Dated 40726 Pumps that Goat Hill did for me several years ago

Notice how one has a Dark Finish (paint or phosphate ???) and the Other appears to have the same "Dirty" Original Finish that I sent in

Also Notice the Fuel Section Zinc is NOT Yellow (zinc) Di Chromate as was Original

I'm wanting to SEE pics of what show quality restored AC Fuel Pumps should LOOK Like

My 3rd Pic shows a AC Service replacement (undated)......What Finish is this as it doesnt look "Natural" Aluminum to me.................

Someone suggested that I have the Upper Aluminum Casting Vapor Honed........

I was thinking to Glass Bead and shake/tumble in my Ceramic Media Machine ???

Here is mine as received back from Fred Ballard in 2021

Mine 1968 302
by Fred

169INDY, The (upper) Cast Portion appears to be coated with Aluminum Paint ?????
I need to replicate Original as mfg finish ..................

That looks more like cast paint. I’ve seen alum intakes painted that look way closer to correct.

There is no aluminum paint on the casting. The castings are cleaned with light media and I use a low gloss clear coat to keep dirty fingerprints off of the surface. I also have an utrasonic cleaner but it is no match for some of the original staining that a lot of the pumps come in with. That way any dirt or fingerprints can be wiped off with acetone and a rag. I also offer to not add the clear coat for people who have a lot of pitting and plan to repair that part on their own. I would be interested to see how those repairs come out. The fuel sections are cleaned and then tumbled before I take them to the plater. All of these processes have been improved by me incrementally over many years.

-Fred-