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My CR-V gets 28 mpg, so, yeah, I did go thru almost $300 in fuel. At $200 to ship and have a rare part lost or destroyed by UPS or FedEx, for $100 more, I'd rather go get parts myself. Sure, I MAY get refunded for the part, if they lose or destroy it, but how many more NOS parts are out there ?
I've had a lot of stuff shipped to me over the years and I don't trust any of the shippers to give a damn about anything they handle anymore. The adventure of going to get parts is just part of the story of rebuilding the car too. |
I like road trips too. I also have to say most of the times parts are not as nice as I expect, so I want to lay eyes on them or have a local buddy do that.
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Well, I got to got to FL for 2 weeks, but that's about 2 months short for avoiding the cold up here. :frown:
Anyway, back on the Camaro. After agonizing for days/hours over the fit and alignment of the truck floor/tail panel brace and the tail panel and quarter fit, I finally just said it's about as perfect as I can get it. I prepped and got it welded on. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Drill screws and clamps gets it tight to the trunk floor and frame rails/tank braces. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I'm going to spot weld the top flange to the trunk floor to avoid needing to dress welds and hide them with sealer. Only issue is, my spot welder is at work and I'm not motivated enough to make a 60 mile round trip to fetch it this weekend. I'll get it home next week, as I work Mon-Wed. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
I get it. I bought an antique gauge tester about 14 years ago. Post Office lost it.
Price was only $35, so not even worth my time to fill out a claim. Have not seen another one since. Few months ago I drove to far SE OK to pick up an old Sun VAT. Took me almost 10 hours to go pick up a part I paid $17 for. Speaking of long distance, there HAS to be someone closer to Thermopois Wy. This Sun Distributor machine is still sitting at $2.50. Would be a 29 hour round trip for me. Therhttps://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/auction/view?auc=2977657 |
Time/distance to the Sun machine for me is the same. ~950 miles/14 hours each way. The last ~100 miles or so on US 16 looks like a blast to drive thru the mountains with switchbacks and all....just not in the winter.
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Now that the lower brace isn't coming out again, it was time to weld on the right trunk drop/extension.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Marked where it would get welded, cleaned the edp off and shot some weld thru primer on. The extension tab is to extend it out beyond the q-panel for welding, as it was too short. I sprayed that with cold galvanizing paint. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds As always, I clamp every weld tight for a good fit and clean weld. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds With that done, I went back to prepping the q-p. I welded the side/pillar brace on. I then shot all the dressed welds with the cold galvanizing. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Located and installed 2 drill screw studs for the window trim. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds After spending a couple hours, tweaking and moving the q-p around, I FINALLY got the fit I was after. Previously the back was 1/4" below the trunk lid when that was even with the left side. Drove me nuts. It's pretty darn close now...:grin: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I put the latch on and worked on getting the door to fit the new panel. Door gap is better and good enough to work with from here. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Getting it flush was a bit time consuming. It was twisted all out of shape from the previous q-p skin replacement in it's early life. I'm pleased with it now. Could always be better, but, again it's good enough to move on from for now. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds This is what it had before. The top of the door was pushed in as far as it would go to try to match the badly installed skin. It had to be twisted/pulled back out to be flush with the new panel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
Looking good Mitch!
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Brought my spot welder home from work yesterday and got the rear brace to trunk floor flange welded today.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds 41 welds should hold that panel in place...:grin: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Then I cleaned up the mig welds with a disc and went over everything with wax and grease remover and hit it twice with the galvanized zinc paint to prevent rust. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds |
I'm running out of excuses to not install the q-panel. I'm apprehensive about screwing this up and am procrastinating terribly. I decided to waste some time and spot welded the bumper reinforcement to the panel.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds After that I couldn't come up with anymore things I needed to do before removal and final prep, so I removed it and did more sanding off of paint in areas that will get welded. I cleaned all the weld thru primer off and painted the bracket and then it was time. No more excuses...:no: I brought a tube of bonding glue home from work for the drip rail and got that all set up and applied a small bead to both the panel and car and put the panel in place. Once I had it where I thought it was good, I clamped the rail to compress the glue. Well, the panel slid forward and eliminated the gap at the door...:tongue: I removed the clamps, reposition the panel and then used drill screws to hold the panel in place and re-clamped the drip edge. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds The frame/body tech at work said I had 60 minutes to move the panel around before the glue would start setting and 90 minutes until it wouldn't move at all. I had the panel firmly screwed and clamped in place in 15 minutes and it was noon, so I went in for an extended lunch of 90 minutes. When I came back out, I spot welded the B pillar while constantly checking the door gap. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Door still closed nice with a good gap, so welded the bottom flange to the rocker. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Proceeded to weld the inner reinforcement/latch panel to the inner structure. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds The door now closes with a slight push from about an inch open. With the bad misalignment before, that door needed a bit of a slam to get to close. Very happy with the fit. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Moved on to the roof seam and welded that all up. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds As always, drill screws and clamps for a tight fit. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I still need to do the welding to the inner structure inside, but that will require a bit of persuasion to get tight and I don't want to disturb the glue for 72 hours, so is for a later date. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Likewise with the welding at the bottom to the rocker inside the quarter structure. That is always a pita and I was making good progress on the outside, so skipped that until I do the roof. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds So, changed out the ends on the spot welder to do the wheel house. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
Nice work! Wish I had that selection of tools...I will be doing quarters and outer wheelhouses on my '68 next winter.
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"I'm running out of excuses to not [fill in the blank]. I'm apprehensive about screwing this up and am procrastinating terribly."
Isn't that the truth. Congrats on getting over the hump. |
Coming along nicely Mitch!
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Been a while since an update. Progress has been slow, as I was now procrastinating on the final fit of the NOS tail panel, when I realized it would be MUCH easier to replace the extension panel without the tail panel in the way. SO, I successfully avoided the tail panel for a while, again... :grin:
I used a cut off wheel to remove the bulk of the panel for better access to the spot welds. I removed them with the 1991 stone grinder. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09207.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09208.JPG And this is a California car.... a coastal car. Still WAYYYY better than anything from the Midwest to restore. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09209.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09210.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09211.JPG I did run the crud thug with descaler wire wheel on this and then soaked it with rust converter before the new panel was installed. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09212.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09213.JPG Out of the box, it was a little wide. The trunk lid to quarters gap is already wider than I'd really like, so did a little hammer forming to get this panel to fit inside. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09215.JPG Well, it finally dropped in, but the trunk seal gutter isn't very well shaped. Slice and dice and hammer form them too. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09216.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09217.JPG Got all 4 corners to lay flat with the quarters. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09272.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09273.JPG |
Been a long time since I had much to post about this project.
I did get the extension panel on last April. The window flange was welded but I panel bonded the seal channel and the end flanges at the quarter. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09306.JPG Then I got goofy and decided to attempt to replicate the brazing of the corners. I learned how to braze in HS shop class....over 50 yrs ago....and that was about the last time I did it, so not the best job, but I'll keep practicing. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09318.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09317.JPG In August of 2019, I drove to Buffalo, NY for an NOS RS left fender. While I was in MI for the inaugural MCACN summer show, I continued on Eastward to Marysville and bought the matching right side...:cool2: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09439.JPG I did nothing on the car until a few weeks ago, as summer and fall duties take most of my time, along with a double hernia I had to deal with for 6 weeks. It was time to finish fitting the NOS tail panel and I thought I had it close last April, but I still spent another 8 hours, or so, agonizing over it and making a few tweaks. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09634.JPG One of my biggest hangups was needing to cut out the reverse light holes and I had to just get beyond that. There was another Granada Gold '67 featured at MCACN that really got me going again and when I got home I marked all the holes I needed to make for plug welding, stripped paint off them and the spot weld areas and welded it on. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...4JXbgNFdDQ.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09639.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09640.JPG I bolted the bumper brackets on to aid in pulling the panel tight to the floor and support panel behind it. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09657.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09655.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09652.JPG |
This is what got me motivated again. The build tag date is, actually, the week before mine was made at the LA plant..:cool2:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09705.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09706.JPG When I removed the tail panel, I was "assuming" I would use my AMD that has the reverse light holes stamped in it, so I wasn't concerned about cutting thru the factory hole. Now, this is what I have to determine the correct location. The marks on the panel are from laying the AMD on it and tracing. They were quite close, but the panel must have shifted during the tracing as the left side was off by 3/8". After another couple hours of measuring and agonizing, I finally drilled the corners and made the cuts. I deliberately made the hole too small to final fit with a 2" disc sander and once that was done, I was relieved to see the lamp fall right in the backing plate holes. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09727.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09726.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09728.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09731.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09729.JPG Fit the tail light to see if it appeared centered. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09732.JPG After getting the right side cut in, which took more work, as the backer holes were off a little, I just HAD to mock it all up to see it. I haven't seen the car this assembled for over 4 years. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09735.JPG Not much left of the original sheet metal anymore. The right q-panel is NOS, as is the tail panel, but the extension, left skin and backer panel are all AMD, as well as the unseen 1 piece trunk floor and right trunk extension/drop. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09736.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09738.JPG Gas cap is NOS from Anthony a while back. The tail panel on the car had been replaced and sectioned in thru the middle of the left tail light. The cable retainer for the cap was bolted thru the left, lower neck mounting hole and I'm wondering if that is correct, or just a handy place for the hacker to install it ? And, yes, the tail panel and right quarter panel repair were a major hack job, with much of the original panels still under the replacements that were brazed on over them. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09733.JPG None of the holes on the NOS panel are punched large enough for the retainer to fit thru. Hoping someone knows what the correct location was. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09734.JPG |
4 Attachment(s)
Hi Mitch here are the pics you requested. LMK if you need others. Taken on my 67 L78 survivor
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After I got the reverse light holes made, I moved on to the trunk latch bracket. This is after a week soaking in Evaporust to soften the black paint sprayed over the spatter and the spatter itself. During test fitting, I discovered this was still twisted from the crash too and had to bend it around to fit straight.
After shooting with SPI epoxy. I was able to spot weld the top to avoid welding and cleaning that in the seal channel. Threw some sloppy welds on the bottom, to mimic the factory ones I cut out...:grin: Then I cut off the rusted right rain gutter... Went at it with the crud thug for an hour and chewed all the rust off. Bought a set of Dynacorn gutters. Cut it down to fit what I had removed. Cut the flange that would have gone under the roof to fit below the existing flange for mounting. It fit and followed the roof very well. This will get butt welded after the panel bond cement cures. I forgot to take a pic with all the clamps on. I had 9 clamps holding it in place. It is very sturdy after curing. |
I have a friend who owned a body repair business for 40 yrs, who retired and sold the business a year ago. His wife passed from Dementia a few months back and he's trying to find things to do to keep himself occupied. He ASKED if he could come over and work on the Camaro. I didn't turn him down. He's been production all his life and I had to work on him to slow down and relax. This is RESTORATION work and there is no time limit. I'll just post some progress pics of the last few weeks.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09825.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09856.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC09858.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00038.JPG The roof was a mess. It had a lot of rust popping thru the old paint and was blistered from the previous person using a disc grinder to go after the deep rust. I cleaned nearly all the rust out of the pits with my crud thug and made the blisters a little worse...:hmmm: There's quite a few hours in that roof here and we did more before sealer/primer. In reality, I should have replaced the roof skin, but it is what it is now. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00039.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00040.JPG Today, we got it in the first real coat of SPI primer/sealer and got to see all the little "stuff' we still need to do better on, but it isn't as much of a multi colored mutt anymore. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00041.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00042.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00043.JPG |
I think you need to send you friend down my way. I can find things for him to do.
You made this statement on page one or two. I don't remember seeing the update. "That turned into the usual repairs but I tried a product, new to me, that was supposed to be the greatest at stopping and sealing any future rust. More on that time consuming fail later." I am a firm believer that you don't seal rust. You cut it out and replace it. This thread is making me tired. Also makes me thankful for the 99% rust free body on my 69 Z/28 as well as the projects I have lined up. I just don't buy rusty ones. |
Great job Mitch, having the car in primer has to feel good.
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That primer was just the first, "let's see how well we are doing with the chemical filler". The left quarter skin took a LOT more filler than I ever believed it needed to look good, but it does look good. We now have the right sail panel where we are happy with it. The NOS quarter had been around to swap meets and being loaded and unloaded from trailers and had numerous small dents along the side. That took a bunch of filler and time to get back flat too. Bodyman wants to get the whole back half in primer now, but I needed to finish the trunk seal gutter clean up and seam seal. I, also, stripped the interior quarter panels to bare and primed them. The left side had an old dent that I tried to ignore, but after primer, I had to fill it. Today was final sand, clean and prep for an attempt at shooting primer into the seal gutter, getting the extension panel covered and all the interior metal too.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00119.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00120.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00122.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00121.JPG |
Looking really good.
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Hopefully what I did today will feel satisfying when I wet sand the interior for color. Looks OK for a beginner...:dunno:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00124.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00125.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00126.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00128.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00127.JPG |
Looks good Mitch!!!
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The temp in my shop is on the cool side to paint in at 65 degrees and I turned it down to 62 for 2 days after this application, knowing the SPI would flow out better as it cured and the cool temp slowed that process even more. I didn't take any pics, but I was super pleased with the end result. The interior panels are nearly texture free.
I knew the extension panel wasn't going to be as good, as I ran out of paint on that before I got the coverage I wanted, still after 2 days, it was much better than right after application and I have already sanded out the minor texture and trash and it looks great. Still prepping for the overall shoot of the roof and back half, hopefully in the next couple days, with the weather getting into the 70's ! |
What color are you going to paint this car? You’ve probably said earlier but I don’t recall?
Lookin good 👍 |
Looks great Mitch!
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I rebuilt both hinges and painted them with R-M single stage. https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...s/DSC00075.JPG |
2 weeks ago today, we woke up to 10" of wet, heavy snow and hundreds of limbs and branches down in the area from the overnight freezing rain and blizzard condition winds. We, also, went without electric power for 20 hours, as crews had many lines down around the entire greater metro Twin City area. I have a generator that we ran for most of that time and had no discomfort from the cold or loss of food in the fridge and we could flush the toilet and shower, since we are on a private well here.
Last week....we were in the mid 70's to mid 80's !!! Absolutely unreal and ALL the new snow and the 8" still there from the winter was gone in 5 days. SO, I got busy sanding all the previous primer down to remove texture and got the car ready for an over-all shoot. I've painted a number of individual panels in the past, but nothing this big at one time. It was quite challenging and the paint is a 40 footer, but it's all protected and one color. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00135.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00136.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00141.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00139.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00140.JPG |
Back in February, I sent both doors and the trunk lid to Restoration Specialists in Franklin, WI for chemical stripping and EDP dipping. I picked it all up last week and to say I was shocked and depressed is an understatement. I can't believe this right door looked like this under the paint. I didn't notice this on the inside while removing all the glass runs either...how the heck did I miss this ???
I knew the left door has a crease issue from seeing the tell tale fingers of bondo inside the door near the lock, but it, too, is much worse than suspected. Does a pair of straight, no rust issue, '67 doors even exist anywhere ? Pics are on my phone and no way to retrieve them, other than to send to my wife's phone and she emails them to my desktop. I don't have email activated on my phone. Right door "dent"...:shocked: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00031.jpg |
Well that is unfortunate. Does it also have rust damage?
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No, both doors and lid have NO rust, just a lot of damage and old grinding gouges.
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Been a long since an update. I did metal work both of the doors back to something acceptable and then layed on the filler. With the help of my body guy, they are quite decent. I should take some pics...
I didn't have time to work on this for the past several months and only recently started giving it some attention. The trunk has been done except for caulk for a long time and I, finally, did that Sunday and painted it today. I REALLY don't like painting black. It's so difficult to see coverage and stripping and in the trunk was especially bad. I knew I had to do something to get the overspray out quickly to see what I was doing, so rigged up my air cleaner to the window. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00579.JPG I sealed off the other openings in the body so it would draw air thru the trunk and it worked great. I sprayed 24 oz of paint in there and this is the mask I wore. No black paint to speak of on it. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00580.JPG I used my little 9 oz touch up gun and with the hose attached was still too tall to really work easily in there. I need to find a 90 degree adapter for the end of the gun to turn the filter/regulator 90 degrees. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00581.JPG Paint is only about 15 minutes old, so still rather shiny. It dulls down to a very nice semi gloss when cured. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00575.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00576.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00578.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00577.JPG |
Great job Mitch your so close now! wished you lived closer lol
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Still plugging along, slowly. I've never been happy about the large gap between the trunk lid and tail panel on these cars, so took a length of 1/8" wire and welded it across the lip.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00602.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00606.JPG Inside... https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00609.JPG Initial knockdown with grinder... https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00615.JPG Then hand filed to shape and test fitting on car. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00616.JPG Cut the ends and welded the rest up, ground and hand filed again after this. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00619.JPG |
Then it was time to get the inner structure of the doors and trunk lid scuffed, caulked and primed with epoxy.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00630.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00634.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00633.JPG Little bit of filler work needed on the lip extension, but not bad. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00635.JPG 2.5 hours later and 2 coats, they are ready to sit under the baking heater and cure. I let the first coat gas out for over an hour, as my shop is only 65 degrees and the paint layed out nicely. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00636.JPG This is my drying system. I line them up right under the indirect heater and leave them alone for 2-3 days. Later this week, they will get jammed with COLOR !! https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC00637.JPG |
Ya, Mon, we be jammin'...:laugh:
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Looks great!!
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