Steve, This is the most informative post on this specific topic that I have ever read.
I am saving your pics.

Have you shared this same info/posting at Nastyz28 where it should be ???

How much activator (1:1) ratio do you add to above formula.....Same as TOTAL weight of Red, Black and 940-4 Flattner ???

What seam sealers Black and White did you use on this project and were you pleased with them ????

Hi Chuck,

I use SPI's recommended 1:1 ratio for mixing the activator to the total of black/red/flattener, but I do not measure it by weight. The activator and epoxy base have different weights per volume, so I mix the activator by volume in a graduated mixing cup. Also, epoxy is pretty tolerant to slight variations from the ideal 1:1 without any negative effects.

For seam sealer, I used Eastwood's tan and black. I like it, it's pretty easy to work with but it takes quite a bit of practice, (at least for me), to replicate the factory texture. I watched a lot of YouTube videos, used a combination of several different stiff-bristle brushes and made a tool to get the effects I wanted. As hard as I try, it's difficult to be as sloppy as the factory.

Here is a PMS color match... get an old PMS book from a local printer and mix to the colors...

Steve that Red Oxide really looks great!! I sent a piece of floor to my jobber a while back and he mixed me a single stage red oxide that was a perfect match. Replicating factory seam sealer is an art. I have learned to walk away from it when I think I got it right. If I try to fix something that I think looks wrong it gets ugly real fast. BTW, Your car is really looking good. People don't realize how much work it takes to get that far into a project.
Chuck that 73 looks pretty solid. It looks like it was a vinyl top car and they are notorious for rust. I had to put a roof skin on KY Gold due to the rust under the top.
Mark

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Thanks for the compliments Mark. I bought the car in 2004 where it had been a dedicated race car since 1973...not much left when I got it, but the shell sheet metal was really solid...but the front end/decklid were fiberglass and the doors had been cored-out. the LT1 was long gone as was the original Muncie, but the original COO rear is still there.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachmen...1&d=1505234984

Soooo....how are you progressing on your L-78?

Steve it looks like you are at the Happy Place or over the hump on your car, When all of the metal work is done and it is in epoxy. I finally managed to find the time to put the roof skin on Gold a few weeks ago. It was a 2 day mission where I could not be interrupted and finding 2 days of free time is tough. Now that that is finally done I can get the car on the rotisserie and remove the really thick undercoating and get the floors cleaned up. They look new under all of that crap so once they are clean I should not have much to do to get them painted.
Mark

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Still have a lot to do before it goes to the painter...but getting closer every day. My oldest just started college this year, so I lost some help/muscle :( My youngest just broke his foot 1 week ago, so that leaves my wife. Good thing she's tough and a good sport :). Keep plugging away and can't wait to see your L78 when complete.

SPI Epoxy Primer
 

Wanting to show people who turn up their nose at SPI (Southern Polyurethane Inc)
Epoxy primer what was applied to bottom of my current 2nd gen Camaro project....

Firewall Pic show semi gloss PPG Delfleet Essential Polyurethane Single Stage
mixed to semi gloss....

Chuck, that looks great! I am hoping to be at that point soon.
Buddy

Chuck that looks great, It looks like you thinned the SPI Epoxy and sprayed it on nice and smooth. Is that the final undercarriage color for a LA built car, or will it be coated the Norwood red oxide?
Mark

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