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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY7_7uey1ac copy everything after the = Then paste that on your post, highlight it and press the You Tube icon - must be in advanced edit to get to it. Presto: |
Installing an embedder is the way to go, I still can’t get it to work.
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Muriatic WILL etch the metal. It needs to be diluted a lot to be safe for the metal and then it works much slower than his results.
If you are going to use it, have a large enough tub to submerge the entire piece to avoid etch lines like I got soaking my fenders one side at a time. The etch will be uniform and if rough enough, supply the "tooth" primers want to grab the metal (substrate) That would eliminate needing to hand sand with 80 grit. |
Muriatic Acid is a wonderful thing. :)
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Do this: On the main screen choose "UserCP" (User Control Panel) https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...3&d=1621705573 Then Choose "Edit Options" https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...4&d=1621705573 To make your message screen look like this... https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...5&d=1621705573 Go to the very bottom of the Edit Options screen and choose "Enhanced Interface - Full WYSIWYG Editing" then save the changes. You should be good to go! https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...6&d=1621705573 __________________ |
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I would never use Muriatic acid on stamped steel panels, especially if there are any welded joints (such as at the bottom of this front valance. You will likely end up with paint bubbles a couple years after paint is applied.
JMHO that it is not worth the risk. |
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